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Home » Travelogues » Europe » Italy » Pompeii - Day 2 in Naples and Amalfi Coast, Italy (Part 1/2)

September 3, 2015 Europe

Pompeii – Day 2 in Naples and Amalfi Coast, Italy (Part 1/2)

Garden of the Fugitives
Plaster casts of the victims in Pompeii

See Day 1 here if you haven’t!

We woke up early on Day 2 and after washing up, we packed our bags and headed for the train station which was a short walk away from our BnB – the Porta Nolana station. Our next destination was Sorrento, but before heading there, we were going to stop by Pompeii – the ancient Roman town-city.

Getting to Pompeii

naples train station

As we were in Naples, the most economical way to go to Pompeii is via train. When the sleepy-looking ticket officer told us that she had no change for our big note, I panicked a little as the train was departing in less than 15 minutes! Thankfully, there was a coffee shop just next door so after purchasing a pastry and a coffee there, we used the small change to purchase our train tickets.

train ticket
Train tickets

The singe-trip train tickets cost €2.60 each. As we boarded the train at Porta Nolana, which was the first stop, we managed to grab two seats to ourselves. The next stop, Piazza Garibaldi, is a pretty crowded station so it may be harder to get seats if you board from there. There is a train leaving every 30 minutes (you can search for the train timings on the official website here or you can access the train timetable here) but certain trains will skip stops while the rest won’t. I’d suggest taking the train leaving at 0811 hours as it takes only 25 minutes to reach Pompeii while other trains in the morning will take about 80 minutes to reach there.

train
The train which took us to Pompeii
arrival at pompeii
And we arrived at Pompeii station!
pompei train staiton
The Pompeii train station

There are toilets (aka WC) at the train station. Luggage can also be deposited at the train station at €3 per bag but don’t if you are heading to Pompeii Archaeological Site – there is a luggage deposit area within the area and it’s free. As it’s not a very far walk from the train station to Pompeii, I highly recommend holding on to your luggage and head to Pompeii to deposit your luggage.

entrance to pompeii
Entrance to Pompeii

Tickets to Pompeii Archaeological Site

ticket office
Ticket office

The entrance fee to the site is priced at €11 per person. We were pleasantly surprised to find out that it was free on the day we visited as it was Easter Sunday. However this happiness was destroyed by what is to come after leaving the site (will talk about it at the end).

Guide

audio guide
Audio guides for rent

There are English-speaking guides on site who could bring us around for 2 hours for €100. Usually, the guides will gather around 10 people so that each person would only have to pay €10, but as we were there early, there were only the two of us so waiting around idly for more people or forking out €100 is not an option to us, so we decided to get the audio guide instead.

prices of audio guide
Prices for the audio guide

Do bring your own headphones / earpiece as you can plug them into the audio guide, freeing your hands to take photos / munch some food while you listen to the commentary. It’s a bit droning and I did skip some of them towards the end, but it contains a wealth of information about the site.

Luggage Deposit

luggage

If you’ve brought along your luggage, right next to the ticket entrance (further down from the ticket office) where you scanned your tickets for the site is a luggage deposit office. Just make sure you are back before 1930 hours to collect your luggage!

Here we go!

Now that we have reached Pompeii, here’s the map of the place (see how huge it is!) And here’s a massive photo tour!

our ticket
Ticket to Pompeii Archaeological Site
Forum
Foro (Forum) – with a sleepy looking resident dog
DSC_0253
At the Foro (Forum) with Tempio di Giove (Temple of Jupiter) in the background – the heavy clouds obscure our view of Mt Vesuvius, an active volcano.
plastic cast
Granai del Foro (Forum Granary) – used to store artefacts found in Pompeii, including the plaster casts of the victims who died during Mt Vesuvius’ eruption.

When Mt Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, it destroyed and preserved Pompeii all at the same time. The deadly gases and molten rocks spewed by the volcano destroyed Pompeii, but as the ashes rain over Pompeii, it covered the city, preserving what’s underneath it.

plastic cast
His final posture – which looks like he was praying

The ash hardened and form a porous shell over the victims, and when the victims’ bodies decayed away, the ash did not disintegrate, resulting in a hollow shell.

In 1864, Giuseppe Fiorelli, discovered a technique to allow the body shapes to be preserved – the hollow pockets were first filled with plaster and left to harden. The outer layers of hardened ash was then chipped away to reveal the final postures of the victims at their moment of death.

DSC_0254
Statue of Eumachia in Edificio di Eumachia (Building of Eumachia) – the statue here is a replica while the original is in the museum.
Brothel
Lupanare (Brothel) – the most famous brothel in Pompeii

In Pompeii, 25 different brothels have been found, with lupanare most famous because of the clear erotic paintings on the wall and names of at least 80 prostitutes and clients were found here.

Brothel
Stone beds in Lupanare
Brothel
One of the few erotic paintings in Lupanare
bath-house
Terme Stabiane (Bath House) – the biggest thermal baths in Pompeii – people visit not just to bathe and relax, but also to socialise.
DSC_0283
Terme Stabiane – some of the mosaics are still well-preserved
bath-house
The complex underground heating system in Terme Stabiane

What was so ingenious about the place was how they heated up the bath house – just right outside the bath is a raised wood-burning furnace which heated the air underneath. The warm air was sent under the raised floor into the bath house, heating up the room.

plastic cast
A plaster cast on display in Terme Stabiane
DSC_0284
The stone paths are actually drains while the main path for people to walk on are raised on the sides. Raised stones are placed at the en of the streets for people t cross from one side to another – like a bridge. The spacing between the raised stones enabled wheeled vehicles to pass through, really ingenious, isn’t it?
DSC_0290 DSC_0327_8_9

Just a few random shots – the weather was gloomy enough for some emo shots.

Great Palestra
Quadriportico dei Teatri (Quadriportico Theatre) – a large space for audience to stroll during intervals of a play
Amphitheater
Teatro Grande (Grand Theater)
DSC_0308
Casa dei Ceii (House of Ceii) – at the atrium

In many Roman houses, the atrium were open to the sky to allow light in and the circulation of fresh air (note that there are no other windows except the main door and the door leading to other rooms). In the middle there would usually be a small pool to collect rainwater.

DSC_0323
Fullonica di Stephanus (Fullonica of Stephanus) – the stove (for cooking) was covered with beautiful mosaic tiles.
Garden of the Fugitives
Porta Nocera e Cinta Muraria overlooking Casa del Giardino di Ercole – it’s really a pity it was a cloudy day, else we would have a clear view of Mt Vesuvius from here.
DSC_0359_60_61
Finally, a path with nobody!
DSC_0371_2_3
Opposite Casa del Larario di Achille
DSC_0377_8_9
Via dell’Abbondanza
DSC_0395_6_7
Casa del Fauno (House of the Faun) – one of the largest and most impressive private residences in Pompeii
DSC_0414_5_6
Villa dei Misteri (Villa of Mysteries) – a well preserved ruin of a Roman villa. The villa sustained minor damage during the eruption of Mt Vesuvius in 79 AD, and inside the frescoes survived largely undamaged.
plastic cast
One last plaster cast of a victim

Things to Bring

  • Snacks and water – I suggest one to spend at least 4 hours there as the site is huge and there are just so many things to see, listen and photographed, and everything have to be done on foot – so I’m quite sure that you will get hungry and thirsty at some point in time. So bring some sandwiches or fruits and water to keep you going! There is a canteen within Pompeii but I’ve read that choices are limited (don’t remember stopping by). There are restaurants (some with WiFi) outside the archaeological site but the food are at tourist prices (you know what I mean) so I’d rather have a proper meal at another place.
  • Sunscreen and hat – There is not much shelter at the site – unless you are hiding in one of the houses / baths / temples – so a sunscreen and hat will be essential, especially during summer!
  • Good trekking shoes / sandals – You’ve probably seen from the photos – the cobbled paths are not the most comfortable kind of road to walk on, so treat your feet well and wear a good pair of shoes or sandals.
  • Umbrella / poncho – Just in case it rains!
  • Headphones / earpiece – As mentioned earlier, you can plug in your headphones or earpiece into the audio guide, which is a much better way to listen to the explanation and it leaves your hands free to take photos or have a snack.

Getting to Our Next Destination

This was definitely unplanned – but when we exited the site and wanted to take the train to Sorrento – we realised there’s no more train! Apparently the trains ran for only half a day as it was Easter Sunday. We had confirmed with the website that there would be trains running the whole day but it turned out it wasn’t the case.

There were some people who bought return train tickets and the ticket officer did not even tell them that the trains were going to run for only half a day. There were only taxis and a coach bus – but they seemed to be in cahoots and were charging €20 per person, be it to Naples or to Sorrento. So despite the fact that we were granted free entrance to Pompeii, we ended up spending more that day.

Lesson learnt: Even official websites are not accurate! If you are travelling on special holidays, do remember to check with different people (BnB host, ticket officer, train conductor etc) to see if you are able to get on the public transport to your destination, else be prepared to burn a hole in the pocket!


← Previous travelgoue: Feasting through Naples What’s next: First Evening in Sorrento →
Feasting through Naples, Italy First Evening in Sorrento

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Categories: Europe Tags: italy, naples & amalfi

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Susan says

    September 15, 2015 at 12:13 am

    Oh my goodness, these are amazing photos! I don’t know if you the blog Lost Past Remembered but she just did a wonderful post on Pompeii and Herculaneum. I think everyone is fascinated by the story of Pompeii.

    Reply
  2. Mir says

    September 8, 2015 at 1:12 am

    These are incredible pics. I’ve always had mixed feelings about visiting Pompeii. See, I find it fascinating, but SO sad. And overwhelming. It’s really cool to see it through your lens!

    Reply
    • Jasline N. says

      September 8, 2015 at 7:09 am

      Hi Mir, I totally understand what you mean! It’s so spectacular but after visiting, especially after seeing the plaster casts, it’s so depressing! But I think it’s still glad to be there to experience it! Hope you get a chance to visit there soon!

      Reply
  3. Charmaine says

    September 4, 2015 at 6:07 pm

    Love the beautiful pixs Jasline…I havent been to Italy, yet…hopefully some days…those artefacts somehow reminded me of the ones in Athens bt that was pretty much as long as 10 years ago when I was there…

    Reply
  4. May Law says

    September 4, 2015 at 5:12 pm

    好喜欢看你的旅游照片, 拍的真美啊!

    Reply
  5. Juliana says

    September 4, 2015 at 12:12 am

    Oh Jasline…the pictures are amazing…I have been to Italy many times, but never at Pompeii area…thanks for the virtual tour…enjoy the rest of the week and I look forward to your next stop!

    Reply
    • Jasline N. says

      September 4, 2015 at 8:28 am

      Thank you Juliana, Italy is so big, there are many other places that I want to visit in the future! 🙂 You have a great week too and take care!

      Reply

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About Foodie Baker

Hi there! I am Foodie Baker - the baker, the cook, the author, the part-time photographer (my husband X takes most of the travel photos), and pretty much the slave behind Foodie Baker. Welcome and I hope you managed to find something you like. :)

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